Seed and new life.
From a small, very tiny grain, a new green, real living life begins. The future beautiful plant rests under a patterned shell. The potential is still sleeping inside the little nut, and how long it wakes up will depend only on the hands of the cultivating grower.
But before the bush that grows and delights us, one exciting moment must pass – Birth.
The emergence of a new life in a person is always accompanied by increased emotions and some restlessness. This is always responsible and disturbing for the vigilant of the process.
There are proven recipes for awakening a seed, getting a completely healthy bore, obviously a strong baby, from which it will be easy to unleash the true potential of the genetics you are interested in.
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Grover Trinity.
For a germinating plant, there are three important, one might even say, decisive external factors. These are humidity, breathing, temperature. You can calmly control these three factors for several days – and you can enjoy friendly high-quality shoots.
It is vitally important for a seed to breathe enough, to absorb clean water, to have the right temperature for the whole process of birth. In case of partial violation of this trinity, the result will be far from desired.Without breathing, the seed will suffocate and rot, without moisture it will dry out, without sufficient heat it can become cold and sour. We will be pleased to see a confident strong sprout, able to thank the caregiver with a large tasty harvest.
It is worth paying special attention to this. Air, water, necessary heat.
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Air, and own experience.
Breathing is one of the most sensitive issues and painful cuffs for a grower. It is not always enough loose breathing soil, it is difficult to guess the humidity during the first watering.
Sprouting through cotton wool gauze is also far from perfect. And with the current newfangled treatment by manufacturers of cotton swabs and similar cosmetic and medical materials with various antibiotics and antiseptic chemicals, germination by this method can already be considered dangerous.
I have tried many different methods myself. Fortunately, I have plenty of seed material for such experiments.
I often go to forums with advice, I write to those who ask in PM, I constantly share my experience on this issue. Moreover, as a creator of nuts, I am simply obliged to know everything about these matters.
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The method itself.
Planting in a perlite cradle in a cup or in the main pot. Or sowing in a perlite school with the subsequent transfer of the seedling to the ground. I use simple perlite to reliably ensure the full respiration of the seeds at the time of germination and to obtain high-quality seedlings.
For beginners and not only I advise direct sowing of seeds even in the main pot through a perlite cradle.What is this cradle?
A hole is made in the ground at the landing site the size of half an egg or a little deeper, covered with perlite. And it is in it, to a depth of two or three centimeters, that a seed is planted directly in perlite. The whole process of birth and active germination will take place in a neutral breathing perlite, and with further growth, the root descends into the nutrient medium of the main soil intended for it.
This is how we achieve ideal breathing for the hatching nut and for the active growth of the bore itself in the first days of life. Perlite also allows us to boldly make the first water-recharging watering to the maximum and remain calm about the free breathing of seeds.
This simple and cunning idea gives you much stronger and more vigorous borings, thereby gaining more opportunities to grow the maximum possible yield.
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We continue. Parnichek.
Further, by tightening the pot or glass with a film, we create a mini-greenhouse with the most favorable microclimate in terms of air humidity near the soil surface. The moisture will remain in the cup until the sprout rises.
Pay attention to this moment. The film stretched over the sides of the pot or cup will be on it until it becomes clear that the sprout has already emerged from the ground. The distance between the film and the soil surface is left 1-2cm. We use a transparent film to make it easy to control seedlings. You can safely use the cut most ordinary disposable bags from the supermarket.
A large pot with a perlite cradle should also be tightened with a film and placed in a dark place with the right temperature before germination.
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And even out.
There is a practice of using perlite for germination when sowing directly into open ground in the out. This is when the return cooling has already passed and stable warm weather has set in.
Landing was carried out in a shallow trench, at the bottom of which was perlite. After a happy strait, the seeds were sown and it was covered with a black film, with the allowance of a small free space between the surface of the earth and the film. Sprinkle the edges tightly around the perimeter.
A transparent film will not work, since the warm Sun through the transparent one will be able to raise the temperature unnecessarily and cause heat.
Checking the edge daily shoots, remove the film when most of the plants have already risen.
Well, on to other important factors.
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Temperature.
The temperature is easy to control with a thermometer, which is deliberately placed near the cups.
It is convenient to put cups together with a thermometer in the most ordinary cardboard packaging boxes of a suitable size. At the bottom there is a plastic bag, or a folded plastic bag, so that moisture from the soil does not leave the drainage holes in the bottom into a dry cardboard box.25-29 degrees Celsius. This temperature can be considered the most optimal. Ideal 27-28.
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Water.
Moisture is just as easy to provide, abundantly pouring clean rain, or osmosis (with a minimum salinity – PPM) water. I do not recommend the usual one from the tap for sprouting. Her PPM averages from 200 to over 500. This salt content is far from natural, necessary for the natural qualitative development of a germinating seed.
Snow melt, rain, or after osmosis cleaning – 20-50 PPM. This pure and life-giving moisture will easily penetrate inside the nut and water it.
Occasionally used purchased water for this. Not all of it is good in terms of trademarks, and it doesn’t suit us with gaziki.
With my PPM-meter, I once made samples of the most common waters in the supermarket. Only “Morshinskaya” passed the tests. I’m not advertising, but I just want to thank them for their stable about 100 PPM. For germination and for hydra, it is quite tolerably suitable.
By the way, in my signature there is a link to my report, it was on this purchased water on the simplest hydra that a full-fledged Dutch watermelon grew under DNAT150.
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Let’s briefly repeat.
As they say, repetition is the mother of learning. Therefore, briefly run through what we learned how to do.
- In the main pot or in a seedling cup filled with soil – we make a hole like the floor of a chicken egg, it can be a little deeper.
- We fill the hole with perlite on a level with the main soil.
- We carry out unhurried, accurate watering until a good flow through the drainage holes.
- We plant a seed in perlite to a depth of 2-3 cm, level it.
- We tighten the film.
- We put in controlled heat.
7.We are waiting calmly.
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And then a little on deviations.
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Cap.
Suddenly, the ascended borer decided to leave the shell on his cotyledons (the first young rounded leaves), he will have to help him a little to get rid of it completely.
People often call it a cap, a helmet.
In order to do this painlessly, moisten the seedlings in a cap, for example, from a pulvik, with clean, high-quality water. Wait for 5-10 mins for a makeshift headdress. And without unnecessary trembling in your hands, with a wooden toothpick or a sharpened match, carefully remove the sticky shell. It is easily removed when moistened.
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Thick shell.
Rarely, but there are cases when, due to a particularly thick shell, moisture is difficult to penetrate inside the nut.
This is easily solved by simply lightly filing the spout and rib of the seed with a nail file or a scribble from a matchbox.
It happens that they bite the nose with nail clippers, or, for example, they snap the whole seed with extreme straight teeth.
Usually, a simple sawing of the spout is enough to speed up the pecking of even the most armored nuts.
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Finally.
This method with perlite is quite versatile in its use. It can be successfully used for any landing in any substrate, knowingly forming a perlite cradle for future boring.
When sowing directly into a large main pot at the place of permanent residence, this method gives a noticeably more weighty result than with seedling transplants or preliminary seed germination. This is especially true for autoflowers and earlyflowers.
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So use, try, write, clarify. Let everything work out for you!
Your Mila 🙂
